THAILAND - Pai - Part 1


So I woke up at 5 a.m. for the last time in the monastery with Moni. We were both very quiet in the dorm but smiling so big because we just wanted to hug each other goodbye and be silly before we parted ways. But instead we laughed silently while I cleaned up my sleeping area and packed my things. After getting ready we went out early to sit near the pond and watch the sun rise before rice offerings. We talk a bit and sad our goodbye, she handed me a note and told me not to read it until she was sure she wasn’t coming to Pai with me. I took it and slipped it into my purse. The bells started to ring and I heard the dog howl for the last time. All the white clothed people meandered towards the Dhama hall and began the offering process. I sat next to Moni this time to just be close. After offering were done we got ready for breakfast and Moni and I made sure we were first so we could have the good stuff before it ran out. There was more rice and stir fry vegetables but this time also fruit and this sweet bread. I took some and shared it with Etien and Moni at the table since they we less fortunate. After breakfast I helped clean up and talked a little more to the group we had formed during our stay. Moni and Etien had to go back for morning meditation and I had to pack my things and get on the red truck to Pai at 8 a.m. I turned in my clothes, but kept my white shirt as a memory, and then turned in my books and bedding. I was dressed in normal clothes which was a nice change. As I walked out and passed the hall, I saw all the people sitting getting ready for morning meditation. I nodded and smiled at Moni and Etien, I wish them the best and safe travels. I pushed on through and went outside the monastery ground were I waited in the same spot I arrived. There were a few more people waiting there to leave as well. While I waited, I was a little scared to be alone once again traveling. Although I knew that I could manage because I did Vietnam for 1 month on my own, but I got so used to having a companion. I knew it wouldn’t be the same. Some time had passed and the monks lead the group of meditators to walking meditation. The Abbot, or head monk, left the line and came up to the group of people boarding the red truck. Once everyone was jam packed in he said some lovely words of wisdom and set us on our way. Once he turned around I waved one last time to Moni and then she walked off into the distance, The red truck was so full we had people hanging off the back and I had a small child on my lap. I put on my medical mask to stop the fumes from violating me. The journey would be about 2 hours until I reach Pai, the Hippy town of Thailand. During the ride I got to look out the side and see the grand views of the national forest and large rolling mountains. It was very smokey and hazy since they started all the burning processes of farming sugar cane. People got on and off at random stops on the side of the road. Lots of people carrying huge bags of produce and potatoes. I always wondered how they know which truck is going where, and how the truck drivers know whether to pick these people up or not? Its beyond me. A few little boys hopped on the back of the truck as we crossed some sort of military checkpoint where all the Thai people had to show their passports, except for all the foreigners. The little boys looked very worried at the fact they had no ID’s, but after speaking with the military officers I guess they got off the hook. We took a stop to go use the bathroom at a small little village. The boys bought themselves mangos and started eating them whole, skin and all! All I had to snack on was dried fruit that was very sugary, but I car sick so I had no desire to eat anyway. I noticed we were getting closer as I saw more and more tourist on the side of the road. I got dropped off at a tourism shop where I pulled out my map of Pai, Etien gave me the low down on what to do with a secret map. From this I saw were my hotel was, the Circus Hostel, it was supposed to be the most popular and hip place to stay. It was only a 10 minutes walk so I put my pack on and started. As I walked through town I was seeing a lot of tourist and cool hippy shops. I can’t wait to look around! I walked over a bridge across a river and walked through an area full of nice resorts. I walked on a dirt path with hostels side to side of me. Very quiet since everyone was in town at this time I guess. Up a giant hill I walked till I could hear my hostel, loud with music and drunk people jumping into the pool. It was almost noon. I walked in to check in and check in wasn’t until 2 so I had to leave my bag at the front desk and wait. It smelled strongly of weed and cigarettes in the air. I wanted to explore the area a little bit for lunch but I needed a motorbike. First had had to charge my phone by the pool at a plug. When I sat there letting it soak up the juices I was looking at the people surrounding me. The were all dressed up like party animals sipping on fancy drinks with their faces all glammed up. It was Saint Patricks day today and they all were talking about going out to the bars. They were all in big clicks groups and it was almost intimidating. Although I told myself I should not feel bad for feeling this way and that I could always go up and ask to hang out, but the thing was I had no desire to hang out with these people. I know I shouldn’t judge people right off the bat but they were very rowdy, loud, and annoying. So instead of waiting till my phone was fully charged I got up and left towards town to rent a motorbike. I saw a few places here and there and then decided on a shop at the corner street. While I walked down this street I saw cool places to eat with homemade kombucha and cool hippy knickknacks. I even saw a bunny bar, aka a bar where you drink alongside real bunnies… I stopped in a few stores but decided to wait before I bought anything big. I signed a few paper to get my bike, which was pink! The lady who rented me the bike was very nice and her dog was ridiculously cute, I had to pet it. For some reason I was scared to be riding again, but I knew I would get the hang of it quickly. I also was feeling a bit lonely… My first stop was going to be the big white Buddha at the top of this large hill. I looked at my map and first looked for a gas station outside of town. I made a fool of myself as I pulled up and almost crashed. The locals all cut in front of my and laughed but I just ignored it. As soon as I was fueled up I made my way to the big Buddha outside town, it was about 10 minutes driving. The further I drove out of town it got a lot quieter and nicer. I missed the turn at first but quickly got back on track up a curvy hill until I got to the parking lot at the bottom of the stairs to the Buddha. I locked up my bike and made my way up the stairs. Along the way, the walls were lined with cut outs of all the different animals of the Chinese new year. It was very hot and once I got to the top of the staircase I was the only one there. I looked around and saw the hazy valley below me and smiled. It was good to be moving again on my own terms. I was ready to be independent again. I snapped a few pictures and went on my way down again. After going down the first hill I decided to detour and follow a sign leading to the famous Long Neck Tribe, the group of native people in northern Thailand that wrap their necks with gold bands to make them appear longer. I always saw them in National Geographic magazines and thought it would be so cool to finally see them in real life! So I turned a hard right, almost crashing, but then proceeded to follow a small bumpy dirt road leading into a valley. I got to a sign at the end of the road with the picture of the long neck tribe on it saying “come and see them!”. I parked my bike in the lot, which was completely empty, and first walked over to a fruit tree. It caught my attention because all the fruit at the bottom of it looked like delicious ripe figs! I picked on up and opened it, and to my surprise, like 100 ants poured out of it and I dropped it. Disgusting. Failing at finding fresh fruit, I carried on and cross this bridge leading to the village. Upon entering I was faced with a few of about $10, not Thai money but US money. At this point I had to stop and really think. I was the only person there waiting at the front desk debating whether to pay this few to go see this tribe, that probably doesn’t want to be disturbed in the first place, and most likely isn’t getting any part of this fee that I would be paying. After long thought and consideration and not knowing where my money would be going, I turned around and left. One my bike ride back to the hostel I really had to think about what had just happened, whether the exploitation of these northern hill tribes was a bad or good thing. When I got back to the hostel it was finally time to check in my bags and get my room. My room was horrific, the worst on my trip so far. It was a thin walled bamboo shack that had 8 bunk beds bad of crappy wood. When I climbed on top of mine, I felt the bed would most likely break. It was super hot and humid in there with no windows, not some place I could come and relax in. I didn’t feel safe at all either, I kept my bag in my bed with me because I didn’t trust anyone. This meant having to sleep with something the size of a large child near my head, but at least no one stole my shit. After I got myself settled in I wanted to get out of this hell hole hostel and walk around town. I heard there was night market of course, like every other big tourist city in Thailand. It was getting dark and I just enjoyed walking around and taking my time. I got a mango smoothie from this small side of the road shack. The lady that made my shake added extra mango which made the shake taste like a cup of love. Across from this shack there was a book store which I spent most of my night in. I was trying to find a good book to take on my 2 day trip to Laos on the slow boat. I didn’t buy any books this day but I was making a list. I waled the streets and went in and out of some stores, surprisingly there was no one out. Lots of weed in the air though. was on the search for some fresh fruit which I went to the market and got some veggies and bananas. My next stop was to try and find a jar of peanut butter to complete the meal, but I wouldn’t find any until the day I leave. After getting my food I went back to the hostel, where I had to dodge a gang of drunk men riding out of the parking lot ready to go live it up in the clubs all dressed in green. Of course they made comments towards me and asked me to join them in bed, I politely denied and walked straight to my room. There was no one in my room, so I got on my bed and made myself a little dinner of just fruit. I took a shower afterwards and read my book. I was excited to have a big adventure tomorrow and do all the things Etien wanted to show me!







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